If you make the cord this way, it will be a good idea to permanently mark it at both ends somehow. Probably cheaper to swap the breaker, and the 30-amp cord will be much easier to handle. You can either change the breaker to a double 30-amp breaker to prevent any problems, or you can use the proper gauge wire for the 50-amp breaker. It will do nothing since it won't be connected on the inside of the plug.ĭepending on the gauge wire you use though, it might be possible to have a cord plugged into a breaker which has a higher rating than the cord. Leaving the extra terminal in place will help the plug stay put in the socket better and make it less likely to pull out - I'd just leave it in place. Making a cord like that would work as long as you get the conductors attached to the proper terminals. What we want is to be able to run the fridge a few days prior to get it cool, keep the coach batteries charged, and in the summer, run the AC on low to keep the humidity down. Could I pull the tooth of the HOT not in use? The cable would stay at home and be wound up sorta like a garden hose on the wall when not in use and not plugged in to the outlet. I like the idea of reconfiguring a 30 AMP cable with a 50 amp male plug, using one HOT, Neutral and ground. Best of luck, and if you are not familiar with electrical codes and methods of installing that kind of thing, I would heartily recommend asking an electrician to help you out with that chore. If you want to leave the 50 amp service in place, you could also do that by pulling a new line from the breaker box to the receptacle box and adding a 30 amp receptacle in that box and a 30 amp breaker in the supply box and that would then give both the 50 amp and 30 amp connections in the same receptacle box, which may also need to be changed in that case. A 30 amp coach receptacle is more commonly used in coaches that are equipped for it, as yours is, and if you use just one leg of the 50 amp service that is currently provided to the "hot tub", and replace the breaker with a 120v/30amp breaker, and then wire the receptacle using that line, while tying off the other line, (pull the breaker for the other leg), you will have one 120v/30amp leg, one neutral line, and one ground line, and you are go to go without risking any electrical error that would damage your coaches electrical system. That 50 amps is a conventional voltage and current source that can be used by coaches and households. That 50 amp receptacle is two legs of 25 amps each and they total 50 amps so that a coach, (or a hot tub), can use both of those legs to get whatever power they need to supply the high current needed in a 50 amp coach. If you no longer plan to have or use a hot tub, I would just replace the breaker that supplies one of the legs of the 50 amp service with a 30 amp breaker and also replace the receptacle with a 30 amp RV receptacle that you can get most anywhere, and then you can just plug your coach into that receptacle without having to concern yourself over an electrical problem. I ask as we have an a 50 amp box where our hot tub used to be and its only 20 feet from where we park the RV. I see dog bones galore but why is there no 25' cable so I don't need the dogbone? If I were to make one, how might I wire it since the 50 amp has 2 hot, a ground and a neutral and the 30 amp has ground, neutral and only 1 hot wire? I was hoping to find a 25 foot cord to go from a 50 amp wall box to my 30 amp RV. That means that if you overload the circuit, the cord can overheat and have a catastrophic failure before the 50-amp breaker ever knows there's a problem. The danger of using an adapter to plug the 30-amp cord into the 50-amp receptacle is that you have a breaker with a higher rating than the 30-amp cord can carry. It's also possible to just replace the hot tub receptacle with a properly wired 50-amp RV receptacle and then plug in your 30-amp cord using an adapter. Should not cost all that much to get the supplies, and even if you have an electrician do the work it should take only an hour or so. Once you have that, then you can just plug in your 30-amp cord. My suggestion would be to first replace the receptacle in the hot tub wall box with a properly wired RV receptacle box with both 30-amp and 50-amp receptacles. It's possible to pull 240v out of that box if you're not careful. Their typically wired for 240v, and it's not always just plug-n-play to plug an RV adapter into it. Your hot tub receptacle has two hots, a neutral, and a ground. As you said, one hot, one neutral, and a ground. Glad to have you here.īe careful doing this - it's possible to successfully do what you want, but it's also possible to fry your coach's electrical system.Ī 30-amp RV is running a 120v system.
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